ROS Scavenging Effect of Selected Isoflavones in Provoked Oxidative Stress Conditions in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes.

Isoflavones, belonging to polyphenolic compounds, show structural similarity to natural estrogens, and in this context, they have been extensively studied. Some of them are also applied as cosmetic additives; however, little is known regarding their effects on skin cells. In this investigation, common isoflavones, including genistein, daidzein, glycitein, formononetin, and biochanin A, as well as coumestrol, were evaluated for antioxidant activity and their impact on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Antioxidant effects were assessed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP tests, and the ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) was tested in cells with H2O2-provoked oxidative stress. The impact on the activity of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, CAT, GSH) and lipid peroxidation (MDA) was also explored. As shown by Alamar Blue and neutral red uptake assays, the compounds were not toxic within the tested concentration range, and formononetin and coumestrol even demonstrated a stimulatory effect on cells. Coumestrol and biochanin A demonstrated significant antioxidative potential, leading to a significant decrease in ROS in the cells stimulated by H2O2. Furthermore, they influenced enzyme activity, preventing depletion during induced oxidative stress, and also reduced MDA levels, demonstrating protection against lipid peroxidation. In turn, genistein, daidzein, and glycitein exhibited low antioxidant capacity.

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology.

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Comparative Study of Cytotoxicity and Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Antibacterial Properties of Unfermented and Fermented Extract of Cornus mas L.

Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Kombucha fermentation as a modern way of processing vineyard by-products into cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE: The wine industry generates large quantities of by-products presenting a remarkably valuable composition in phytochemicals. The process that can significantly increase the content of bioactive compounds is fermentation by yeast and other microorganisms. The current study presents, for the first time, an evaluation of the potential of grape stems extract and its ferments using the Scoby consortium, as a cosmetic raw material for improving the skin care properties of facial cosmetics. METHODS: Fermentation of grape stems using Scoby consortium was carried out for 10 and 20 days. Unfermented and fermented extracts were analysed for their antioxidant activity and chemical composition, with a particular emphasis on biologically active substances. Additionally, the influence of the addition of the obtained ferments to the model cosmetic creams on hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin pH were assessed. RESULTS: The obtained results revealed that grape stems extract and its ferments are a rich source of phenolic compounds and show antioxidant activity, with the highest values observed for extracts on the 20th day of fermentation. Furthermore, the addition of the extract, as well as ferment, to the cream has a positive effect on skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that grape stem extracts are a prospective source of active compounds that may be valuable ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Unfermented and fermented extracts can be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also to complement the treatment of dry and sensitive skin.

OBJECTIF: L'industrie du vin génère de grandes quantités de sous-produits présentant une composition remarquablement précieuse en matière de phytochimie. Le procédé susceptible d'augmenter significativement la teneur en composés bioactifs est la fermentation par la levure et d'autres micro-organismes. Cette étude présente pour la première fois une évaluation du potentiel de l'extrait de rafle de raisin et de ses ferments réalisés à l'aide du consortium Scoby lors de l'utilisation en matière première pour améliorer les propriétés de soin cutané des cosmétiques du visage. MÉTHODES: La fermentation des rafles de raisin a été réalisée à l'aide du consortium Scoby pendant 10 et 20 jours. L'activité antioxydante et la composition chimique des extraits non fermentés et fermentés a été analysée en mettant l'accent sur les substances biologiquement actives. En outre, l'évaluation a également porté sur l'influence de l'ajout des ferments obtenus aux crèmes cosmétiques types sur l'hydratation, la perte d'eau transépidermique et le pH cutané. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats obtenus ont révélé que l'extrait de rafles et ses ferments représentaient une source riche en composés phénoliques et montraient une activité antioxydante ; les valeurs les plus élevées des extraits étant observées au 20 -ème jour de fermentation. En outre, l'ajout de l'extrait et du ferment à la crème entraîne un effet positif sur l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la perte d'eau transépidermique. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les extraits de rafles représentent une source prospective de composés actifs et peuvent constituer des principes actifs précieux pour l'industrie cosmétique. Il est possible d'utiliser des extraits non fermentés et fermentés dans les formulations cosmétiques hydratantes et pour compléter le traitement des peaux sèches et sensibles.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts.

In this study, an attempt was made to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects of the Sambucus nigra fruit extract and its ferment obtained by fermentation with kombucha tea fungus. For this purpose, fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition by the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was assessed using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests to assess the viability and metabolism of fibroblast and keratinocyte skin cells. Potential anti-aging properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of the metalloproteinases collagenase and elastase. Tests showed that the extract and the ferment have antioxidant properties and stimulate the proliferation of both cell types. The study also assessed the anti-inflammatory activity of the extract and ferment by monitoring levels of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6, IL-1ß, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and anti-inflammatory IL-10 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated fibroblast cells. The results indicate that both the S. nigra extract and its kombucha ferment can be effective in preventing free-radical-induced cell damage and have positive effects on skin cell health.

In Vitro Evaluation of Antioxidant and Protective Potential of Kombucha-Fermented Black Berry Extracts against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Cells and Yeast Model.

The fruits of R. nigrum L., A. melanocarpa Michx., and V. myrtillus L. are well-known natural plant materials with proven antioxidant activity. This work attempts to compare the antioxidant properties of extracts of these plants and ferments obtained during their fermentation using a consortium of microorganisms referred to as kombucha. As part of the work, a phytochemical analysis of extracts and ferments was carried out using the UPLC-MS method and the content of the main components was determined. The antioxidant properties of the tested samples and their cytotoxicity were assessed with the use of DPPH and ABTS radicals. The protective effect against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was also assessed. The possibility of inhibiting the increase in the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species was carried out on both human skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (wild-type strains and sod1Δ deletion mutants). The conducted analyses showed that the ferments obtained are characterized by a greater variety of biologically active compounds; in most cases they do not cause a cytotoxic effect, show strong antioxidant properties, and can reduce oxidative stress in both human and yeast cells. This effect depends on the concentration used and the fermentation time. The results obtained indicate that the tested ferments can be considered as an extremely valuable raw material protecting cells against the negative effects of oxidative stress.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product.

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Assessment of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties and Safety of Use of Model Skin Tonics with Kombucha-Fermented Red Berry Extracts.

Kombucha is a health-promoting beverage that is produced by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and yeast of the genus Saccharomyces. This study compared the cosmetic and dermatological properties of the extracts of the following redberries: R. rubrum, F. vesca, and R. idaeus, and their ferments, which were obtained by fermentation for 10 and 20 days using tea fungus. For this purpose, the fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition using the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method, demonstrating the high content of biologically active compounds that were present in the ferments. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS tests, as well as by evaluating the scavenging of the external and intracellular free radicals. The cytotoxicity of the extracts and the ferments, as well as the cosmetic formulations, were also determined by conducting Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests assessing the cell viability and metabolism using skin cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In addition, application tests were conducted showing the positive effects of the model cosmetic tonics on the TEWL, the skin hydration, and the skin pH. The results indicate that both the extracts and the ferments that were obtained from kombucha can be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Potential of an Extract from Cornus mas L. Fruit against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts.

Cornus mas L. is a rich source of valuable compounds with pro-health properties and, therefore, may be attractive for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This paper attempts to assess the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective effect of an extract from C. mas fruit on skin cells in vitro. The phytochemical analysis of the extract was carried out using UPLC-MS and the content of the main components was determined. The biological activity of the extract was assessed by in vitro analysis using two human cell lines: keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ). Additionally, the ability of this extract to regulate gene expression (SOD-1, Nox-4) in skin cells was evaluated. Moreover, the impact of the extract and its main components, including loganic acid and cornuside, on the level of inflammatory cytokines in H2O2-treated cells was assessed. The tests showed that the extract has strong antioxidant properties and stimulates the proliferation of both types of cells. The results evidence that the Cornus mas L. fruit extract significantly reduces the level of reactive oxygen species in the cells tested and can modulate the expression of genes closely related to oxidative stress. Moreover, it suppresses the production of IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α, and the effect was related to loganic acid and cornuside. The present research indicates that the analyzed dogwood extract can be an effective means of prevention of cell damage caused by free radicals and have a positive effect on the condition of skin cells.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts.

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Modulatory Effect of Diosmin and Diosmetin on Metalloproteinase Activity and Inflammatory Mediators in Human Skin Fibroblasts Treated with Lipopolysaccharide.

Diosmin is widely used as a venoactive drug in the pharmacological treatment of chronic venous disorders. It exerts a strong protective effect on blood vessels via an increase in the elasticity of vessel walls and reduces the permeability of capillary walls, thereby producing an anti-edematous effect. In this paper, we investigated the effectiveness of diosmin and diosmetin in modulating the level of proinflammatory factors in human skin fibroblasts treated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS). Two variants of the experiments were performed: the flavonoid was added 2 h prior to or 24 h after LPS stimulation. Our study revealed that both flavonoids reduced the levels of IL-6 and Il-1ß as well as COX-2 and PGE2 but had no impact on IL-10. However, the addition of the compounds prior to the LPS addition was more effective. Moreover, diosmetin modulated the proinflammatory factors more strongly than diosmin. Our investigations also showed that both flavonoids were potent inhibitors of elastase and collagenase activity, and no differences between the glycoside and aglycone forms were observed.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products.

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry.

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.

Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts.

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products.

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Positive Effect of Cannabis sativa L. Herb Extracts on Skin Cells and Assessment of Cannabinoid-Based Hydrogels Properties.

The skin is an organ that is constantly exposed to many external factors that can affect its structure and function. Due to the presence of different cannabinoid receptors on many types of skin cells, cannabinoids can interact directly with them. Therefore, as part of this work, the impact of two types of Cannabis sativa L. herb extracts on keratinocytes and fibroblasts was assessed. The content of biologically active compounds such as phenols, flavonoids, chlorophylls and cannabinoids was evaluated. The antioxidant capacity of prepared extracts using the DPPH radical, H2DCFDA probe and measurement of superoxide dismutase activity was also assessed. The cytotoxicity of hemp extracts was determined using the Alamar Blue, Neutral Red and LDH assays. The ability of the extracts to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases, collagenase and elastase, was assessed. Preparations of model hydrogels were also prepared and their effect on transepidermal water loss and skin hydration was measured. The obtained results indicate that hemp extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active substances that reduce oxidative stress, inhibit skin aging processes and positively affect the viability of skin cells. The analysis also showed that hydrogels based on cannabis extracts have a positive effect on skin hydration.

Assessment of cytotoxicity and antioxidant properties of berry leaves as by-products with potential application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L., Rubus fruticosus L., Fragaria vesca L. leaves are considered an agro-waste of the berry industry. Although numerous studies indicate fruit is a rich source of bioactive compounds, the authors prove leaves can also be a valuable source of compounds used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The study attempts to assess and compare the antioxidant and cytotoxic properties of berry leaves extracts. The total phenolic compounds, flavonoids, anthocyanins and procyanidins content were determined. Antioxidant potential was evaluated using the DPPH radical scavenging method. Cytotoxicity studies were conducted to evaluate the effect of the extracts on the metabolism and proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in vitro. The effect on the migration capacity of these cells was also assessed. The obtained results show that the examined extracts are a source of valuable bioactive agents. All tested extracts show significant ability to remove free radicals in higher concentrations. Cytotoxicity assessments have shown that leaf extracts of the analyzed plants differ in cytotoxicity, both for keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The results of the assessment of cell migration capacity correlate with cytotoxicity tests, because the concentration of extracts showing cytotoxic activity towards the tested cells also inhibited their migration.

Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Selected Ayurvedic Plant Extracts.

Due to the constantly growing interest in ingredients of natural origin, this study attempts to evaluate the possibility of using extracts from three Ayurvedic plants in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases. Therefore, studies of antioxidant properties were carried out using DPPH and ABTS radicals, obtaining 76% and 88% of these radical scavenging, respectively. A significant decrease in the intracellular level of free radicals and an increase in the activity of the antioxidant enzyme-superoxide dismutase by almost 60% were also observed. In addition, the extracts were assessed for anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, obtaining over 70% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity and almost 40% of collagenase. Additionally, the cytoprotective properties of the obtained extracts on skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, were demonstrated. To assess the content of biologically active compounds, HPLC-electrospray ionization (ESI)-MS/MS multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) analyses were performed. The obtained results show that all three analyzed plants are a valuable source of biologically active substances with desired properties in the context of skin cell protection. Particularly noteworthy is the extract of Epilobium angustifolium L., for which the most promising results were obtained.

Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells.

In response to the constantly growing demand for high quality cosmetics we observe an increasing interest in products containing natural plant extracts. This article attempts to assess the antioxidant and cytotoxic properties of extracts from alfalfa herb and seeds (Medicago sativa L.). These extracts were obtained using ultrasound-assisted extraction method. The research was carried out on two cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The obtained results show that the examined extracts from M. sativa L. are a source of valuable biologically active agents. Both extracts were characterized by high content of flavonoids and phenolic compounds. Evaluation of antioxidant properties of extracts using DPPH• radical indicated that the alfalfa extracts can efficiently scavenge free radicals. The results of the conducted experiments demonstrated that the M. sativa L. extracts do not only have an inhibitory effect on free radicals existing in the external environment of the cell, but also have the ability to reduce the intracellular reactive oxygen species level, which may contribute to the reduction of oxidative stress inside the cells. Studies performed using cell lines indicated that the tested extracts increase the proliferation and metabolism of skin cells in vitro. The high antioxidant capacity of M. sativa L. extracts may indicate its potential use as a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels.

Cationic surfactants have a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of an amphiphilic cationic polymer - a cationic derivative of guar gum - on the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Model body wash gels based on an anionic surfactant, containing 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% of the studied compound, were subjected to analyses in order to evaluate their skin irritation effect and the ability to solubilize model sebum. Cell culture studies were also carried out. In addition, the effect of the cationized guar gum derivative on the key quality parameters of body wash cosmetics (viscosity and foaming properties) was assessed. The analyses showed that the addition of the cationic guar gum derivative induced a significant increase in the safety of use of the model body wash gels without causing any impairment of the functional properties of the product.